Wing, kite, surf, SUP and windsurf boards repaired in Tamarin — dried out properly first, then rebuilt so water stays outside where it belongs.
Epoxy and polyester, carbon and glass, sandwich and PU — the fix is matched to how the board was built, not a one-size-fits-all patch.
Rail dings, nose and tail cracks, heel dents and pressure cracks. Opened up, dried, filled and glassed to match the original layup, then sanded and sealed.
A deck that moves under your feet has let go from the core. We open it, dry the foam, re-bond the skin and rebuild the laminate so it's stiff again.
Pulled footstrap inserts, cracked foil tracks and loose mounting plates rebuilt into the board so the load goes into the structure, not just the skin.
Stripped vent plugs, blown fin boxes, cracked handles and the odd job that isn't on any list. If it's a board and it's broken, send a photo.
Every board is quoted before work starts — a ballpark from your photos, a firm price once we've seen how wet it is.
A couple of clear shots of the damage, and tell us if it's been in the water since.
We open the damage up and check how far the water went before pricing the job.
Dried right through, then glassed and finished. Cure times can't be rushed.
We message you the moment it's ready to collect in Tamarin.
Tell us what happened, where the damage is, and whether it's been wet since — that's usually enough for a ballpark price.
Usually, yes. Every session with an open ding pushes more water into the foam, and wet foam has to dry before anything can be sealed. Tape it and stop riding it until it's fixed — it makes the repair cheaper and faster.
A dry ding is a few days. A waterlogged board has to dry out properly first, which can take a week or more depending on how much got in. We'd rather tell you that upfront than seal water inside a board.
It depends on the damage and how wet it is, so every board is quoted individually. Send photos for a ballpark; you'll get a firm price after we've opened it up, before any work starts.
Clear repairs on a white board come out close to invisible. On coloured or printed decks we can colour-match, but a structural repair sometimes shows. We prioritise strength over cosmetics unless you ask otherwise.
We use what the board was built with. Epoxy resin goes on epoxy and EPS boards; polyester on traditional PU/polyester boards. Putting polyester on an EPS core melts it, which is why the cheap fix sometimes isn't.
Yes. Track and box damage is structural, so we rebuild the area around the track and re-bed it into the board rather than just filling the crack. Send a photo of the track and the deck above it.
